Lip filler used to be reserved for celebrities and the wealthier class, but it has now become a mainstream treatment, arguably made popular by Kylie Jenner and social media (shocker!). Lip filler has come a long way since the days of questionable methods such as injecting silicone and animal collagen into the lips. Most fillers on the market today are made of synthetic hyaluronic acid in various densities to suit all areas of the face, with the lips being one of the most popular treated. So, if you’ve been contemplating jumping on the lip filler train, here is everything you need to know before booking your poke!

How Dermal Filler works

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is naturally produced by the body and can be found in the eyes, joints, and skin. The purpose of HA in the body is to aid joints in moving smoothly and prevent bones from grinding against each other. Additionally, HA keeps your skin hydrated, plump, and flexible (Cleveland clinic, 2022, para 1). HA is found in a variety of skincare products because of its hydration benefits to the skin. Its job is to draw water in and hold onto it to lock in hydration. HA fillers work the same way with the added benefit of being dense (because they are synthetically made) to instantly shape and plump the lips while continuously drawing in water to increase hydration. Individuals with naturally drier lips can benefit not just from the plumped pout, but also from the boost in hydration that filler offers.

Reasons to Get Lip Filler

• Add volume to the lips. The most common reason for getting lip filler is to increase your lip size and build volume.
• Restore lost volume. As we age our collagen production slows down tremendously and results in lost volume in our face. This is why cheeks and under eyes start to look sunken, lips lose their youthful plump and fine lines start to appear.
• Correct asymmetry. Lip filler can correct asymmetry in both the top and bottom lips
• Boost hydration. Hydration can be difficult to maintain at all ages in a dry climate, but it becomes increasingly difficult to reap the plumping benefits of hydrated lips as we start to age.

The Treatment

Once you have consulted with a registered nurse injector and come up with a realistic plan for your lips, the treatment itself takes approximately 30 minutes to an hour and that includes numbing time. We’re going to give it to you straight: you’ll likely still feel some of the pokes even when numbed and it’s common for eyes to get a little watery. We love that our nurse injectors have tools and techniques to distract from the pokes as much as possible, but it is still going to be a tad uncomfortable, though we promise it’s worth it! Once the injection part is over, your injector will massage your lips (literally moving the filler around to where it needs to be) and apply an ointment to soothe the dryness and help with healing. The exciting thing about filler is that your results are immediate. However, your lips will be swollen so the final result will take a few days once the swelling has gone down.

Side Effects

Swelling, bruising and tenderness are all very normal and hard-to-avoid side effects. Some clients will bruise immediately post-injection whereas others may see a small bruise or two pop up in the following days. Swelling will arise immediately after treatment and goes down within 24 to 48 hours on average. These and more serious but rare side effects should be discussed with you prior to your treatment.

Post Care

The most important thing to remember after your filler appointment is to avoid massaging the area (yes that means no steamy make out sessions too) for the first 24 hours while the filler is settling in place. Massaging the area can cause the filler to migrate where it shouldn’t be and require dissolving. It’s equally as important to keep the lips clean (no makeup or lipstick) for the first 24 hours while the injection sites heal to avoid infection. Tylenol or ice can be used to soothe the swelling and tenderness if desired.

How Long Does Filler Last?

Results typically last 9-12 months, though can last as long as 18 months before a touch-up is needed. Filler is metabolized by the body naturally, so the longevity of your results really depends on how active your metabolism is. For example, if you’re currently training for a marathon, best to wait until after the race to get your filler done to make the most out of your results. A touch-up to restore lost volume can be done at any time.

Migration and Dissolving

Migration sounds scary, but filler migration is not uncommon, especially when injecting in smaller areas like the lips and particularly naturally smaller lips. So why does this happen? When too much filler is injected into the area at one time, it has nowhere to go and migrates outside the vermillion border, generally towards the nose causing volume where you don’t want it. Luckily, filler can be dissolved and instantly removes the unwanted filler. The downside? Dissolving filler is not as fun as getting filler, and it has to be done very carefully so to not dissolve the filler you want to keep. This is why smaller lips are built up slowly over several sessions to allow the lips time to stretch and be able to hold more filler with less risk of migration. 

Realistic Expectations

At Natology, clients often bring photos of their desired lips to their appointment. We love to see your lip goals! But it’s important to understand that your lips are unique to you and no two sets of lips are created equal. Your natural lip shape, volume, and structure determine the limitations of lip filler. Smaller lips have a harder time holding onto higher quantities of filler and need to be built up slowly, whereas naturally more voluminous lips can handle a higher quantity of filler right away.

Lip Filler Myths

• It’s obvious to others when you get filler. Wrong! Filler is only obvious if you want it to be obvious. Achieving natural results with filler is usually the goal, giving the plumpness and hydration you desire while keeping the lips balanced with the rest of the face.
• It will always migrate. It’s a risk yes, but filler will typically only migrate if it has nowhere to go (because too much filler was injected) or proper post-care has not been followed.
• Your lips will not return to their natural state once it has dissolved. This may be true if the quantity injected significantly stretched out the lips; however, if a minimal amount was injected the lips will return to their natural state once the filler has metabolized.

So, Is Filler the Right Move For You?

Filler is one of the most exciting treatments to have done because the results are instant! With any cosmetic treatment, there are always potential risks so it’s important you know the risks and side effects before undergoing filler. Here are some green flags to watch out for to feel confident that you’ve got the right injector for the job:

• They will say no if need be. Sometimes it’s simply not safe to undergo filler, or the results you want just can’t be achieved. An injector who gives it to you straight is a green flag.
• They go over all the risks, even the scary ones. An injector who tells you all the possible risks, hears your concerns, and understands if you change your mind is a green flag.
• They follow up after the appointment. Sometimes a touch-up is needed once the swelling has gone down and the lips have healed. An injector who checks in after the initial poke is a green flag.
• They ensure you’re comfortable throughout the entire treatment. Needles in the lips is not the most fun experience. An injector who asks how you are doing throughout the appointment and accommodates any requests as much as possible is a green flag.