Melasma: Your Questions Answered

The dreaded melasma… while not serious or harmful, melasma is one of the most frustrating skin conditions to treat and we see a lot of it at Natology. Melasma affects the outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis), this layer contains melanocytes that are triggered to produce pigment in response to sunlight, UV radiation and hormones. 

What Does Melasma Look Like?

Melasma appears as brownish-gray patches on the face. These patches have well-defined borders and are most commonly found on the cheeks, forehead, chin, and upper lip. Melasma is most common on olive to darker skin tones.

Primary Causes of Melasma

First and foremost, hormones. Melasma is often referred to as the “mask of pregnancy” because many women first experience it while pregnant, and presents predominantly in women. Birth control can also prompt melasma. Your melanocytes found in the epidermis get prompted to produce more melanin resulting in the dark patches formed on the face. Once melasma appears for the first time, it is often a reoccurring problem as sun and heat in general can trigger it. Lastly, genetics and thyroid issues can play a part in melasma.

Treatments For Melasma

Chemical Peels: Because this condition is triggered by heat, we’re going back to the basics and turning to good old chemical peels. Chemical peels work by rapidly speeding up cell turnover, literally peeling away the outermost layer of skin to reveal new, healthy skin. A series of peels can significantly fade melasma. Be ready for some downtime after a chemical peel as you’ll be shedding your skin for about 5 days post-peel.

Micro Laser Peel: A micro laser peel safely destroys the outer layer of skin for quicker results than a chemical peel. The treatment does require numbing and will have a longer downtime than regular chemical peels, but can dramatically reduce the appearance of melasma with even just one treatment. 

The downfall to both of these treatments is that they are not pregnancy-safe.  Most treatments for melasma, including skin care products specifically designed to help manage it (more on this below), must wait until pregnancy and breastfeeding are complete. In this case, the best way to keep it under control during this vulnerable time is through sun protection by way of sunscreen, hats, remaining cool and in the shade.

Skincare For Melasma

Hydroquinone: This is a bleaching agent that lightens dark pigmentation and stops melanin from producing pigment. HQ comes in different strengths, though anything higher than 2% must be prescribed by your dermatologist.

Retinol: Is there anything retinol doesn’t do? Retinol speeds up cell turnover brightening and fading all kinds of pigmentation. This is a great product to keep in your skincare rotation through the winter months to upkeep results. 

Vitamin C: Vitamin C is packed with antioxidants to brighten and lighten dark spots. Plus, it provides an additional layer of defence against the sun. A high-quality Vitamin C should be in your morning skincare regime all year round. 

SPF: 7 days a week, 12 months of the year, apply your SPF! The sun and melasma are not friends so an SPF 30 or above that protects against both UVA and UVB rays is absolutely necessary.

Pregnancy Mask

While the treatment options are limited while pregnant, and retinol and hydroquinone are not pregnancy-safe either, we have two key pregnancy-safe serums from AlumierMD for our mamas:

AHA Renewal Serum: This serum is comprised of 8% lactic acid and vitamin B5 that when used a few evenings a week, improves cell turnover to renew, brighten, and reduce discolouration. Not to mention the next morning glow is an added bonus!

EvenTone: This is a lightweight serum with natural brighteners like licorice and shiitake mushroom used to keep discolouration at bay. This serum is gentle enough to use every day.

Combine these power products with a high-quality Vitamin C and SPF for your best defence against the mask of pregnancy!

The Right SPF for Melasma

I can’t end this article without a section dedicated to SPF, because they are not all the same. In fact, most SPFs only protect against UVB rays. In the case of melasma, the “B” in UVB stands for “bummer” because UVA are longer wavelengths that stimulate melanin production. Investing in a high-quality mineral-based, zinc SPF will offer the protection melasma requires. Pro tip: a tinted SPF can help provide some coverage of melasma.

While there may not be a permanent solution to melasma, there are options to keep it under control. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, your options may be limited to simply high-quality skincare ingredients. Consult your practitioner about which option will be best for you before the height of that summer sun and heat!