CHEMICAL PEELS 101: Which Type Is The Most Effective For Your Skin

Sep 14

Have you ever wondered how some people seem to have that glassy, radiant, glowing skin? Well, there's a secret weapon in the world of skincare called chemical peels. In this beginner's guide, we're going to demystify the science behind chemical peels, explore the different types available, and help you understand which ones are the most effective for your skin.

Understanding the word “chemical”

We hear this all the time… “I don’t want a peel because I don’t like to use chemicals on my face”. The term "chemical" in chemical peels can indeed sound intimidating, but it's essential to demystify this fear by understanding what it actually means in the context of skincare. Here are some key points to consider:

Everything Is Chemical: First and foremost, it's crucial to recognize that everything, including water and the air we breathe, is made up of chemicals. Chemicals are simply substances with specific properties, and they can be natural or synthetic. In skincare, chemical compounds are used to achieve desired effects, such as exfoliation, hydration, or skin rejuvenation.
Controlled Chemistry: Chemical peels involve the application of carefully formulated solutions containing specific chemical compounds. These compounds are selected for their ability to improve skin texture, address skin concerns, and promote healthier skin. The term "chemical" in this context signifies a controlled and purposeful process.
Professional Expertise: Chemical peels should only be administered by dermatologists or medical aestheticians who are trained and experienced in their use. These professionals understand the chemistry involved and can customize the treatment to your unique skin type and concerns.
Safe and Regulated: The skincare industry adheres to strict regulations to ensure the safety and efficacy of chemical peels and other skincare products. Reputable skincare brands and professionals use products that have undergone rigorous testing and meet industry standards.

The Basics of Chemical Peels

Now that we’ve addressed the fear around chemicals and before we dive into the nitty-gritty details, let's start with the basics. What exactly is a chemical peel and how do they work?

Chemical peels work by applying a specially formulated chemical solution to the skin's surface, which initiates controlled exfoliation. The chemicals in the solution, typically acids like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or other active compounds, break down the bonds between old, damaged skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin. This process triggers the shedding of these cells, revealing fresher, smoother skin beneath. The result is a rejuvenated complexion with improved texture, reduced fine lines, and a more even skin tone. Who doesn’t want that?!

Now, let's break down chemical peels into three main categories based on their depth and intensity:

Superficial Peels: These are the gentlest of the bunch and work on the outermost layer of your skin. They are great for freshening up your complexion and addressing minor issues like uneven skin tone or mild acne scars.
Medium Peels: Medium-depth peels penetrate a bit deeper into your skin. They are more effective at treating moderate concerns such as fine lines, sun damage, and pigmentation irregularities.
Deep Peels: As the name suggests, deep peels go all-in, delving deep into your skin. They are used to address severe issues like deep wrinkles, extensive sun damage, and scars. However, deep peels are more intense and require a longer recovery period.

Understanding Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Now that you know the basics, let's explore the ingredients commonly used in chemical peels, starting with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). These are naturally occurring acids found in various foods.

Glycolic Acid: Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is a star player in the world of AHAs. It's known for its ability to tackle fine lines, uneven texture, and mild acne scars.
Lactic Acid: Found in milk, lactic acid is a gentle AHA that also provides hydration. It's an excellent choice for sensitive skin and can help improve texture and reduce the appearance of pores.
Citric Acid: This AHA comes from citrus fruits and is famous for its brightening properties. It can help fade dark spots and give your skin a radiant glow.
Malic Acid: Apples are the source of malic acid, another mild AHA. It's ideal for those with sensitive skin and can contribute to improved skin texture.
Mandelic Acid: This AHA is derived from bitter almonds, and it has become increasingly popular in the world of skincare due to its effectiveness and relatively gentle nature. It can be very effective in treating acne, inflammation, pigmentation and aging skin.

The Might of Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Next up, we have Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), another essential ingredient in chemical peels. The most common BHA used is salicylic acid, which works wonders for those with acne-prone and oily skin.

This BHA dives deep into your pores, clearing out excess oil and dead skin cells. It's perfect for treating acne, blackheads, and keeping your skin feeling fresh.

TCA Peels: The Balanced Option

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) peels fall somewhere in the middle when it comes to depth. They are versatile and can be used for both superficial and medium-depth peels. TCA peels are excellent for reducing fine lines, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and addressing acne scars. These peels, however, are limited in Canada at very small percentages, so it’s important that TCA is always chosen and administered by a professional.

Jessner Peels: The Multi-Tasker

A Jessner peel is a medium-depth chemical peel commonly used to improve the appearance of the skin. This type of chemical peel typically involves a combination of three main ingredients: salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol, making it a great peel for multiple different types of concerns. It does involve a little downtime while the skin spends some time shedding. It’s great for acne, improving skin texture and tone, and many forms of hyperpigmentation.

Choosing the Right Chemical Peel for Your Skin

Now that you're familiar with the different types of chemical peels and their ingredients, let's discuss which ones are the most effective for specific skin concerns.

For Acne-Prone Skin: Salicylic acid and Mandelic peels are your best bet. They can penetrate deep into the pores, helping to clear out the gunk that leads to breakouts, while also addressing inflammation and scarring.
For Pigmentation Issues: Glycolic or lactic acid peels can work wonders on uneven skin tone and dark spots. These AHAs exfoliate the top layer of skin, revealing a brighter complexion beneath.
For Aging Skin: AHA or Jessner peels are a great choice for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also improve skin texture and overall tone.
For Sensitive Skin: Lactic or Mandelic Acid are your friend. The gentle exfoliation properties are less likely to cause irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
For Multiple concerns: Go Jessner! If addressing multiple concerns in your skin and you’re “down” for a little down time, this is a great option. This type of peel could take a little time to work up to but under the care of a good skin practitioner, it can provide you with incredible results.

Preparing for Your Chemical Peel Journey

Before you embark on your chemical peel adventure, it's essential to prepare your skin and set realistic expectations. Here are some tips:

Consult a Professional: Always consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional before attempting any chemical peel. There’s too much room for error to try this on your own, especially if you’re new to peels.
Sun Protection: Start wearing sunscreen daily. Sun protection is crucial before and after a peel to prevent further damage.
Cease Exfoliation: Discontinue the use of any exfoliating products, retinol or benzoyl peroxide products from your skincare routine a week before your peel.
Follow Post-Peel Care: Your skincare professional will provide specific instructions for aftercare. Follow them diligently to ensure a smooth recovery.

The Chemical Peel Experience

The actual peel experience can vary depending on the type and depth of the peel you choose. Here's a general idea of what to expect:

Pre-Peel Preparation: Your skin will be thoroughly cleansed and prepped before the application of the chemical solution.
The Peel Application: The chemical solution is applied to your skin in a controlled manner. You might feel a mild tingling, itchy or “spicy” sensation that lasts for a few minutes. The peel is monitored by the practitioner at this time, watching for any indicators that the skin has had enough.
Post-Peel Neutralization: After a specified time, the peel is neutralized to stop its action. Some peels are self-neutralizing and will remain on the skin at this stage for up to 24 hours. Yes, that’s right - in this case you will be sent home with the peel on your face. Don’t worry, there’s no discomfort here!
Recovery: The recovery time can vary from zero to ten days, depending on the type of peel. Your skin may peel, become red, and feel sensitive during this period.
Post-Peel Care: Follow your skincare professional's instructions for post-peel care, which typically includes gentle cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection.

The Grand Reveal - Your Radiant Skin!

As the days pass after your chemical peel, you'll start to notice an amazing transformation. And with some, you’ll see the radiant glow almost immediately post peel, again depending on which you and your practitioner choose. Your skin will gradually shed the old, damaged layers, revealing fresh, radiant, and rejuvenated skin beneath. The results of a chemical peel are often worth the temporary discomfort and downtime (if any at all).

Maintaining Your Beautiful Skin

Once you've achieved that coveted radiant skin, the journey doesn't end there. Proper skincare and maintenance are essential to keep your skin looking its best. Here are some tips:

Sun Protection: Continue to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.
Hydration: Keep your skin well-hydrated by using a moisturizer suitable for your skin type.
Gentle Cleansing: Avoid harsh cleansers and opt for a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser to maintain your skin's health.
Consultation: Regularly check in with your skincare professional to assess your skin's needs and make adjustments to your routine as necessary.

Conclusion

Chemical peels may sound intimidating, but they are a powerful tool for achieving radiant, youthful skin. By understanding the science behind chemical peels and choosing the right one for your skin type and concerns, you can embark on a journey to reveal the skin of your dreams. Remember, the key to successful chemical peels is knowledge, preparation, and the guidance of a skincare professional. No matter the skin type, goal and lifestyle, there is a peel type for you! So, go ahead and unmask the beauty within you with the magic of chemical peels!